Peeling paint is more than an inconvenience— it’s a sign that something’s off with your walls. Before you grab a roller and start painting over the problem, let’s uncover what’s really causing the issue and how to prevent it for good.
At Roe Painting, we’ve been repainting homes, businesses, and industrial sites for over 25 years. We’ve seen just about everything when it comes to peeling, bubbling, and cracking paint. We’re here to help you determine the cause and plan for the future of your paint.
In this article, we’ll break down the 8 most common causes of peeling paint and how to fix it. By the end, you’ll be able to identify what’s behind the peeling paint in your space and what comes next.
Moisture can be one of the biggest factors for peeling paint. When moisture gets under the surface of the paint, it can start pushing the paint away from the wall–resulting in bubbling or peeling paint.
This is common in areas like bathrooms, kitchens, or anywhere where extra moisture might be present from humidifiers, hot tubs, or another water source. We also see this in areas like basements where there may be a high moisture content in the foundation of the home that can penetrate the walls.
The key to stopping moisture-related paint peeling is making sure that your home can breathe properly.
Start by looking at the areas where moisture builds up the most–bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, and basements. If you don’t have one already, install an exhaust fan in any bathroom that has a shower. It’s one of the simplest and most effective ways to remove humidity from the air.
In more sealed or heavily insulated homes, the issue might be bigger than just one room. Without proper ventilation in the walls or roof, moisture has nowhere to go–and it will find its way behind your paint. Roof vents (and sometimes wall vents) may need to be installed to let that trapped moisture escape.
Even cracking a window can help in the short term. If your basement feels damp or musty, that’s another red flag. You’ll want to get to the root of what’s causing that high humidity—a leak, poor drainage, or something else–and resolve it before painting anything.
Once you’ve solved the ventilation issue, you can turn your attention to repainting:
Fix the airflow first, then repaint. If you skip the ventilation step, the peeling will come back–no matter how good your paint job is.
If your paint is coming off in sheets or flakes and revealing a glossy surface underneath, the issue isn’t likely with the paint—it’s the surface itself.
When you paint over something that’s hard, glossy, or slick—like glass, tile, vinyl, or even some factory finishes–there’s nothing for the paint to grab onto. These types of surfaces don’t have the tiny imperfections or “tooth” needed for proper adhesion. Even the best primers or paints can’t bond well without that texture. The result? Peeling, usually in large, frustrating chunks.
This problem is especially common on doors, cabinets, or trim that come prefinished or have been previously coated with high-gloss enamel. If the surface wasn’t scuffed or primed correctly before painting, it’s only a matter of time before the new layer starts to let go.
The key to fixing this problem (and preventing it from happening again) is all in the prep.
Start by thoroughly cleaning the surface. Use a professional-grade cleaner to remove any grease, grime, or residue. Rinse well and let the surface dry completely before moving on to the next step.
Next, remove any peeling or damaged paint by scraping and sanding until you reach a smooth, sound layer. If the surface still has a glossy finish, dull it with sandpaper. This step creates the tiny grooves and texture that help the new paint stick.
Don't skip the bonding primer if the surface still feels hard and slick after sanding. Apply a product like Extreme Bond Primer to give your topcoat something to adhere to. These primers are specifically made to help paint stick to stubborn surfaces.
Before you repaint, it’s a good idea to test the surrounding area—about 6 to 12 inches out from where the peeling occurred—to make sure your new coating will hold up.
If your paint is flaking, bubbling, or falling off your plaster walls—especially in random patches—the root cause usually traces back to the condition of the plaster itself.
Plaster is a unique surface. Paint simply can't stick to it well when it’s too smooth, chalky, or alkaline. In some cases, the problem starts way back during installation. If the white coat wasn’t properly troweled while still wet, it can lead to a dusty or powdery surface that repels paint over time.
Other times, the plaster might be so hard and slick that there’s nothing for the paint to grip. New plaster can also hold a high pH level, interfering with adhesion unless an alkali-resistant primer is used. And on older plaster, years of wear can leave it dry and crumbly—which paint definitely won’t bond to without the proper prep.
Poor surface preparation is almost always the root of peeling issues, regardless of the plaster's age.
Getting paint to stick to plaster—and stay there—depends entirely on the surface condition.
Start by checking that the plaster is fully cured and hard. If you’re dealing with textured, soft, porous, or powdery plaster, you must treat the surface first. A simple mix of one pint of household vinegar and one gallon of water can help firm it up. Apply the solution, let it soak in, and repeat as needed until the surface feels solid. Then rinse with clean water and let it dry completely.
If the plaster is new, wait at least 30 days for it to cure before priming and painting. Can’t wait that long? After seven days of curing, you can use a specialized primer like Loxon Masonry Primer, which is made to handle high-pH surfaces like fresh plaster.
Already seeing peeling? Sand or scrape off any loose or flaking paint. Then, test the surrounding paint within a 6 to 12-inch radius to ensure it’s still adhering well.
If the plaster has cracks or holes, repair them before repainting. Make sure the patched areas match the surrounding texture so they blend in once painted. Always follow the directions on your paint’s label for proper surface prep and application.
If your latex paint is lifting or peeling off in sheets—especially on trim, doors, or older walls–there’s a good chance it was applied over oil-based paint without the right prep.
Latex paint doesn’t naturally stick to glossy or oil-based surfaces. Without proper sanding or priming, the latex layer can’t form a strong bond–and over time (or sometimes right away), it will start to peel or flake off.
This problem occurs most often in older homes where oil-based paint was once common. Homeowners and painters may not realize what type of paint was originally used, and when latex is applied directly on top, it simply doesn’t adhere properly. Even light cleaning or rubbing can cause it to lift.
Start by confirming whether the old surface is oil-based. One simple method is to rub a small area with a rag dipped in rubbing alcohol or acetone–if no paint comes off, it’s likely oil-based. Once confirmed, you’ll need to sand the surface thoroughly. This dulls the gloss and gives the new paint something to grip.
After sanding, clean the surface to remove all dust and debris. A clean, dull surface is critical for adhesion.
Before you jump straight to your topcoat, apply a high-quality bonding primer made specifically for difficult-to-paint surfaces. This step creates a secure bridge between the old oil-based layer and your new latex paint.
If peeling has already happened, scrape or sand away any loose paint. Then, test the paint in a 6 to 12-inch radius around the affected area to make sure the rest is still firmly attached. Reprime any bare or prepped areas before repainting.
Skipping the sanding and priming steps is what usually leads to failure—so if you want lasting results, surface prep is non-negotiable.
If you notice your paint cracking, fading, or peeling—especially in areas that get direct sunlight—it could be sun damage at work.
Constant exposure to heat and UV rays can wreak havoc on painted surfaces, even indoors. When sunlight heats up walls and trim, it can dry out the paint, making it brittle and prone to cracking. Over time, this breakdown reduces the paint’s flexibility—and once it starts to crack, peeling isn’t far behind.
Another factor is expansion and contraction. As temperatures rise and fall, the paint layer expands and shrinks, which stresses the bond between the paint and the wall. If that bond weakens enough, the paint will start to lift or flake off.
UV rays also damage the paint chemically. They can break down the compounds in both oil-based and latex paints, causing fading and eventually peeling. Oil-based paints are especially vulnerable to this kind of breakdown. Still, even more flexible paints, such as latex or elastomeric (outdoor) coatings, can suffer without the proper prep or protection.
The key to protecting your paint from sun damage is choosing the right products and prepping the surface properly before you start.
First, ensure the surface is clean, dry, and primed correctly. Any dirt, chalkiness, or leftover residue can weaken adhesion and make paint more likely to peel under stress from heat and sunlight. Use a high-quality primer compatible with your surface and suited for sun-exposed areas. This step gives your topcoat the best chance of holding on long-term.
Next, select a paint that’s designed to withstand UV exposure. Some latex and elastomeric paints include UV-resistant additives that help maintain color and flexibility even in harsh sunlight. These coatings are better equipped to handle the expansion and contraction caused by daily temperature swings.
If peeling has already occurred, scrape or sand away any loose or damaged paint. Test the surrounding area (6 to 12 inches) to ensure that what remains is bonded well. Then, clean, prime, and repaint using a premium-grade product like Sherwin Williams Emerald Urethane, which has a urethane additive that can withstand UV exposure.
Finally, consider the location. If you’re painting a sun-facing wall or window trim that gets hit with hours of direct light, investing in UV-resistant materials isn’t just a nice-to-have—it’s necessary for a long-lasting finish.
Peeling paint isn’t always caused by moisture, bad plaster, or sun damage. Sometimes, it comes down to simple missteps in product choice or prep. Here are three other common culprits–and how to solve them.
Cheaper or expired paint often lacks the binders and durability for proper adhesion. It may go on fine, but it won’t hold up—especially in tough environments like bathrooms or sunny rooms.
Solution: Always check the expiration date and invest in high-quality paint that’s suited for your surface and environment. If peeling has already occurred, remove the bad paint, clean the surface, and repaint using fresh, high-performance paint.
Over time, layers of paint can build up and lose flexibility, making the entire coating system more prone to failure. Similarly, applying paint too thinly—especially without primer—means poor coverage and poor adhesion.
Solution: Remove as many loose layers as possible, then sand to create a stable surface. Always apply paint at the recommended thickness, using a primer if needed, and allow each coat to dry thoroughly before adding another.
Paint can’t bond to surfaces that aren’t clean. If grease, oil, or even leftover cleaning products are left behind, they’ll act as a barrier and cause paint to lift.
Solution: Clean walls with a degreaser or prep wash designed for painting. Rinse thoroughly, allow to dry, and sand if necessary before priming and painting.
At the end of the day, peeling paint is never just a cosmetic issue—it’s a signal that something deeper is going on, whether it’s moisture, bad prep, aging materials, or just the wrong product for the job.
Whether you’re a homeowner trying to refresh a bathroom, a business owner trying to maintain a retail space, or a facility manager needing durable solutions to industrial paint problems, getting to the root of the cause is always the first step.
At Roe Painting, we help customers across all kinds of spaces find the right long-term solution, not just a temporary patch. If you’re still unsure what’s behind your peeling paint—or if you know, but want help getting it fixed the right way—we’re here to help.
Your next step? Schedule a complimentary consultation with our team to assess the surface, the environment, and the best product for your needs.